How was Riyadh. Good question.

All in all, it was relatively dull. I spent the majority of my time being shuttled between the hotel and conference center at King Abudulaziz university. Didn't see much of the city, but what I did see didn't really impress me: mainly car dealerships and malls. I can't say I was really exposed to any novel cultural experience, aside from sitting on the opposite side of the auditorium from my female colleagues. They did, however, let us eat lunch and dinner together, which I'm told represents a liberalizing effort.

It seemed to be a fairly friendly place, but with something hidden under the surface, like they were putting on airs for a couple dozen westerners . On my last day there, as I was leaving the conference enter, a young medical student came up to me, beaming, and kind of had a fanboy moment. Apparently, he was quite enamored with the work our lab does, and was happy to have a conversation with a western scientist (even though I'm not a notable one by any stretch). Although flattered, I thought little of it until he sent me an email a short while later:

Hey, Dr. X

I'm Mohammed, the medical student you've met earlier today. It was great to listen/speak to you. Long story short, I hope we meet in person. Maybe in the hotel lobby for your convenience.

I'm a secular atheist pacifist introvert science freak, the worst combination to be in this land. You could be the first one I have the GUTS to honestly talk to in person.

You're probably spending the evening with your conference colleagues, but I'd appreciate if you could spare whatever time you feel not busy.

I'm a benevolent guy to know and it'd mean the WORLD if I know an understanding person.

Followed by this one:

Thanks for your reply Doctor,

You've served much of what I hoped for by expressing your understanding, all that I hope is someone whom I don't fear my life talking to freely. My existence is an utter anathema, terrorism punished by prison, lashing and (they charitably abstained) execution. even psychiatrists can report us secretly, I know someone on Twitter who got exposed to his family by his psychiatrist.

Perhaps he was a government agent trying to get me to say something untoward as retaliation for me telling their organizers that their scientists were always going to be at a disadvantage unless or until they have a more open society. Probably not though. I'm sure they kid was genuine, and it really broke my heart. I thought of inviting him to Hubski, but haven't decided yet.

Mostly, I just wanted a beer.